Something no agency will offer is the opportunity to stay in the family home before setting off, or for a really incredible experience, start from Abner's farm 3.500m in the hills above Chiquian. From there it was 3 days before we saw any other trekkers! Abner treats his animals exceptionally carefully, our donkeys were never laden like we saw in other groups. On my last trip we encountered other groups having all sorts of problems; missing equipment, donkeys falling over etc, but we felt in very safe hands.
Financially we were very satisfied as every cost is accounted for; guide, cook, donkeys, mule for riding/safety, so all added up we knew where our money was going - directly to the people who did the work, rather than an agency who pockets your money and pays the drivers a pittance!
I've lots of experience trekking in different countries and can't recommend Abner highly enough. Huayuash is a tough walk as it's a long way and can be very cold at night, but the walking is not that hard, only a couple of days require some serious slogging, and there are a couple of passes around 5000m, but the scenery, mountains and lakes are spectacular and if you have time I recommend you insert a couple of rest days, or take it at a leisurely pace to absorb the experience.

Our small party was led by Alcides, assisted by his brother Adolfo. Our meeting in Huaraz was warm and cheerful and augured well for our trip. Shopping for food was an experience in itself. Anne is vegetarian, but Alcides still managed to create wonderful meals on the trek. We stayed with the family at their house in Chiquian both before and after the trek, a real bonus and more welcoming than a hotel room.
The trek was wonderful, although the weather was more overcast due to the time of the year. Security has greatly improved since our previous visit in 2002, the local communities manage their own valleys. Alcides and Adolfo were great guides, knowing the mountains intimately and judging our abilities correctly (we are nearly 60). We learnt to master horse riding, becoming good friends with Sultan and were at times grateful to take a rest from walking. Alcides acquired a young domesticated vicuña named Kennedy who accompanied us back to Chiquian and added to the fun.

Although another brother Abner speaks a reasonable amount of English, we did start off with some language difficulties. But this added to the experience, our Spanish improving rapidly and Alcides making progress in English, until we could hold conversations on some quite complex topics.
Finally, price. It was definitely very competitive, much cheaper than agencies charge and probably a bit less than we paid in 2002. They are worth a generous tip. Would we use them again? Certainly!

The brothers were professional, friendly and well organized. From the very first contact, I was impressed with how quickly Abner responded to my emails which made the process of trip planning quite easy.
We met Abner in Huaraz to go over our final route and to go food shopping. Later that afternoon, we got on a bus to make the trip to Chiquian. I would definitely recommend staying the night before the trek at the Valdez house in Chiquian. I'm sorry that we weren't able to complete the full loop and return there for a Pachamanca (next time, we hope!).
From Chiquian, we headed off on our trek accompanied by Alcides and Adolfo, their younger brother. We had a wonderful time and were extremely happy with the service that Alcides and Adolfo provided. They were friendly and knowledgeable about the area and we had many interesting after-dinner discussions. I was also impressed at how they cared for their animals and also how they did not leave garbage at the camp-sites like so many of the other guides. I was happy to have Rigel the mule along as he gave me a ride a few times up the passes. I also have to mention that you will not suffer in the nutrition department if you go hiking with Alcides. He is an excellent cook and we had many delicious meals. The most memorable was fresh trout and French fries. I've never seen anyone make French fries on a camping trip before!
I would not hesitate to recommend a trip to the Huayhuash to anyone in good shape who likes being outdoors. We chose to do only the route between Llamac and Cajatambo due to time constraints and would love to go back to complete the full loop. When we return, we will definitely do so with the Valdez brothers!

Photos on Flicker.Having found out about this website via Lonely Planet Thorntree forum we contacted Abner by email with help from Jenny and various Spanish speaking friends to arrange our trek. 

• a great breakfast (pancakes or porridge)
• packing up camp and Abner and Adolfo loading the donkeys
• 3-7 hours of walking (most days including a high pass) with plenty of breaks to take in the stunning scenery and a good "box lunch" en route
• a welcome hot drink on arrival at camp
• plenty of time relaxing at camp
• a tasty and filling soup, followed by a delicious dinner in the large cooking/mess tent
• bed (in our own tent). 

• Try to change bigger notes for smaller ones for campsite fees and anything you buy en route (we bought fresh trout from a farmer and a few resupplies in Huayallpa) 
• We struggled to find iodine for our drinking water locally so bring it with you - Micropur is available locally but doesn't kill all nasties 
• Take a swimsuit for the pool fed by the hot springs or you'll be swimming in your undies like us! 
• Take lots of books (the donkeys will kindly carry them for you) as there's lots of time relaxing at camp. 

We met with Abner in Huaraz to buy food at the market (yes it works to meet at 9am at one corner of the Plaza de Armas), which is already a first great experience you miss with a travel agency. In Chiquian we stayed at Abner’s house for one night and discussed the exact route. With Adolfo, we took the bus to Pocpa the next day, where we met with Alcides and three donkeys and a mule. After loading all luggage and supplies, we set off for the magnificent trek. The weather was perfect during the whole time, only 2 half-days with clouds and no rain at all. Mountain views every day! There was not a second we regretted having chosen the Valdez brothers as our guides (all the more when you meet large trekking groups along the way): 

• They know numerous side paths and great viewpoints so you get away from the main trail if you wish. (We i.e. hiked Trapecio pass to save one day)
• They love their animals, do not overload them and treat them well. 
• They have been in these mountains since their childhood and tell a lot of details and stories. Besides, we hardly met a local person they did not know.
• They are great cooks (not only do you get a “restaurant” dinner but also a tasty soup in the afternoon and pancakes in the morning). 
• They know a lot of less frequented, small camp sites (despite high season we almost always camped alone or far away from other groups). 
• They adapt the route during the trek according to your wishes/abilities.
• They keep the mountains clean by taking all rubbish along with them. 

Despite our poor Spanish, we had interesting conversations along the trek and especially in the cold evenings. For us, it’s been magnificent and unique 11 days ending with a great Pachamanca meal at Abner’s house to celebrate the successful trek. Thanks again to you, Abner Alcides and Adolfo.

My partner and I met Abner and Adolfo 2 years ago when we went on a 14 day trek in the wonderful cordillera of Huayhuash with both of them. I kept in touch with Abner, and I just got back from his farm close to Chiquian. I spent 12 unforgetable days with Abner, his wife, his 2 daughters, his parents and Adolfo. Hard life, harsh conditions with no power, no running water, no sanitary but a great welcome. I worked with them weeding potatoes, milking cows, building a terrace wall, baking bread, forging tools etc…I was raised on a farm and I'm used to hard work… which is helpful in this case. 

Abner would like to develop this kind of tourism with people who want to share his way of life and give a hand, if they can or desire to.

Français
Je connais Abner et Adolfo depuis 2 ans parce que, avec mon amie, nous avons fait un trek de 14 jours dans la fantastique cordillère de Huayhuash avec eux. Je suis resté en contact avec Abner et je viens de passer 12 jours que je n’oublierai jamais dans sa ferme proche de Chiquian. Il y vit avec ses parents, son épouse et ses deux filles. Les conditions sont rudes : pas d’électricité, pas d’eau courante, pas de sanitaires mais un accueil magnifique. J’ai travaillé avec eux pour traire les vaches, désherber les pommes de terre, construire un mur de terrasse, faire du pain , forger du métal etc…Je suis d’origine paysanne et je connais le travail manuel…ça aide.
Abner voudrait développer cette forme de tourisme avec des gens qui veulent partager sa façon de vivre et participer seulement s’ils le peuvent à des travaux.

Español
Conocí a Abner y Adolfo en 2009. Fueron respectivamente nuestros guía y arriero durante un trek de 14 días que realizamos con mi amiga en la maravillosa cordillera de Huayhuash. Acabo de pasar 12 días en su chacra (granja andina). Ahí vive con sus padres, su esposa, sus hijos y Adolfo. Las condiciones de vida son muy básicas: no hay luz, agua corriente, baño. Sin embargo la acogida es fantástica. Trabaje con ellos ordeñando vacas, construyendo terrazas para la agricultura, deshierbando papas, haciendo pan, o apoyando en actividades de forja… Nací en una granja y conozco el trabajo manual….es una ayuda útil en este caso.
Abner desearía desarrollar este tipo de turismo con personas que quieran compartir su modo de vida y puedan participar de las actividades de la familia. 

The trek in the Huayhuash Mountains was a unique and unforgettable experience. Los amigos de Huayhuash: The brothers Abner, Alcides and Adolfo are an absolutely fantastic team. The help & guidance before, during and after the tour was great.

• Los amigos del Huayhuash were always ready for a personal, individual care: Before the trek we bought together the food for the entire trek.
• They provided a good acclimatization trek before (night and day trip from the base in Chiquian (their home) before the trek started the next day from Pocpa)
• The route was discussed & decided together depending on the stamina and skills of each person.
• We had blue skies and sunshine every day, the Huayhuash mountain range is fantastic and one of nature's paradises
• The Valdez brothers know the mountains very well and are always looking for alternative routes where other tourists were rare.
• I was absolutely delighted to have done the trek with Los Amigos de Huayhuash. We were only four. (towards the end of the trek, we met a group of 10)
• In the morning before breakfast we got a hot tea to wake us up, brought to our tents. Our guides always asked our preferences: breakfast cereal or pancakes for breakfast or bread with egg, or perhaps you prefer warm quinoa and potato soup like the Peruvians :-)
• The food was always very good and sufficient. Breakfast, ample picnics on the go, snacks upon arrival at camp and plentiful dinner: soup, main course and dessert, if desired, Pisco, etc.
• The day trips were always between 4-7hrs long, the route being so well discussed before setting off. The guides were always very considerate and alert to the condition of the participants
• The brothers, to respect nature and wildlife, kept all rubbish to dispose of properly after the trek.
• Our mules were never overloaded; the horse Tipi accompanied us for emergencies and tired legs… I made the most of it :-)
• I recommend the trek through the Huayhuash Mountains to anyone who loves nature and the mountains - it's a unique experience and words really can not describe it.
• The typical meal "Pachamanca" the brothers prepared for us after the tour in their home was simply delicious!

... and in German:

• Los amigos del Huayhuash waren stets um eine persönliche, individuelle Betreung bemüht: Vor dem Tek kauften wir gemeinsam die Nahrungsmittel für den gesamten Trek ein.
• Sie sorgen für eine gute Aklimatisierung vor dem Trek (Übernachtung und Tagestour bei Ihnen Zuhause in Chiquian, bevor der Trek am Folgetag ab Pocpa startete)
• Die Route wurde gemeinsam je nach Ausdauer und Fähigkeiten besprochen und ausgewählt
• Wir hatten jeden Tag blauer Himmel und Sonnenschein,das Huayhuash-Gebirge ist traumhaft und ein einziges Naturparadies
• Die Valdez Brüder kennen das Gebirge sehr gut und suchten stets kleine Plätze für unser Lager aus, wo kaum andere Touristen aufzufinden waren.
• Ich war absolut froh, mit den amigos de Huayhuash diesen Trek gemacht zu haben. Wir waren nur zu viert.( Unterwegs gegen Ende des Treks trafen wir eine 10köpfige Gruppen-> Massenabfertigung)
• Morgens bekamen wir vor dem Frühstück einen heißen Tee an unser Schlafzelt gebracht. Beim Essen wurden wir stets nach unseren Wünschen gefragt: zum Frühstück lieber Müsli oder Pancakes oder Brot mit Ei oder vielleicht doch lieber warme Quinoa und Kartoffelsuppe wie die Peruaner frühstücken :-)
• Das Essen war immer sehr gut und ausreichend. Frühstück, reichliches Picnic für unterwegs, Zwischenmahlzeit nach der Ankunft am Lager und reichliches Abendessen:Suppe,Hauptgang und Dessert wenn gewünscht, Pisco ,etc
• Die Tagestouren waren immer zwischen 4-7h, wobei die Route ja auch vor Beginn besprochen wurde. Die guides waren stets sehr rücksichtsvoll und passen sich der Kondition der Teilnehmer an
• Die Brüder achten die Natur und Tierwelt sehr. Wir haben den gesamten Müll wieder mit nach Hause genommen.
• Unser Packesel wurden nie überbelastet; für Notfälle und müde Beine begleitete uns das Pferd Tipi. Haben es aber nciht gebraucht :-)
• Der Trek durch das Huayhuash Gebirge empfehle ich jedem, der die Natur und die Berge liebt- es ist ein einzigartiges erlebnis und mit Worten eigentlich nicht zu beschreiben.
• Die typische Mahlzeit- Pachamanca-die die Brüder nach dem Trek in Ihrem Zuhause fürs uns zubereiteten,war einfach köstlich.!!

“Katrin”, I asked, “Do you want to go to Peru for some hiking in the Cordillera Huayhaush?” 

That was how the adventure began, after hearing a hiking buddy rave about his trips to the area some 10 years ago. Knowing my friend, I should have realized that this innocent question would initiate from her a flood of questions, daily Web-based searches and wildly ambitious plans for my second trip to Peru. Fortunately, Katrin’s frugal nature and generally solid instincts about people quickly pointed us to Los Amigos de Huayhaush. The special hospitality, familiar expertise with the area, friendly disposition and excellent organization that we found with Abner, Adolfo and Anamin turned what could have been a rather dull forced march into a wonderfully invigorating and yet calming experience in the high Andes of central Peru.
The special treatment began when we arrived by bus from Lima to Huaraz. Anamin met us at our hostal, somewhat surprisingly, to find out if our trip had been pleasant so far, explain preparations for the trek and let us know that she would be available for any questions that arose. This friendly approach and Anamin’s excellent command of English helped in allaying our remaining concerns about the trip and compensating for my shamefully impoverished Spanish.
Several days later, after acclimatizing around Huaraz – a pretty little town with wonderful day hikes accessed on foot or collectivo – we met Adolfo, the youngest of the Valdez clan, for a morning of shopping in the local markets. Katrin and I were used to backpacking in the Canadian Rockies, where excess weight is a costly luxury and so we expected to be eating rather Spartan fare. We had also heard that some trekking agencies in the area were in the habit of serving 10 days of pasta and tomato sauce to their clients. And so, we were pleasantly surprised when our food cache included local cheeses, fresh fruit and veggies, quinoa and a few sweets for extra energy.

Later that day, we boarded the bus with Adolfo and made the 3-hour trek to Chiquian, where we got some additional supplies and made bus arrangements for the trip to Llamac, the start of the trek. We spent the night in the Valdez family home, a spacious but simple dwelling on the outskirts of Chiquian, but one with hot running water and a warm bed. Abner’s wife, Erika, made us a great dinner, a skill of the entire family, as we were to find out later.
Early next morning, we headed by bus up the treacherously curved, steep and rutted road to Llamac where, due to bus “irregularities”, we were unable to connect for the final bus segment to Pocpa. There we were, stuck with all of our gear, 10 days worth of food and no way to get it to the burros, already in Pocpa with Abner.

Not to worry. Somehow, Abner had gotten word of the difficulties and, within 45 minutes, could be seen coming down the narrow road on Tipi, the lead horse, accompanied by our burro team, Juan, Toledo, Richimbo and Alan. A few minutes lagter, we had loaded the burros and were hiking, a bit later than expected but happy that our adventure had begun in earnest.
Over the next 10 days, we fell into a pleasant, almost meditative rhythm. We would wake at around sunrise, have a solid breakfast of mate de coca, local bread, eggs, cheese, or quinoa, help pack the gear and burros. Then, as Abner led the burros to our next camp, Adolfo guided us past waterfalls and pastures, over 5000 meter passes, along the length of wide valleys and under the snow-capped peaks that define the Cordillera Huayhuash. It is really quite impossible to describe the area and even photos can’t do it justice. We are blessed with innumerable and majestic mountains in our Canuck homeland, but the Andes certainly rival the Rockies for jaw-dropping beauty.
During our daily walking, we traded language lessons, with me getting the better end of the deal because Adolfo’s English was pretty polished compared to my halting and error-prone efforts. The descents were generally easy but the up-slope segments, generally between 4000 and 5000 meters, required slow-going even after our acclimatization. Adolfo seemed to have a very natural sense of the pace we needed and, on those occasions when we wanted a bit of a break, Tipi the Wonder Horse was ready to provide the transport option.

At day’s end, generally after 5-6 hours on the trail, we arrived at camp that was already set up by Abner. It was a real treat to have a good tent to crawl into when the rains started, as they generally did, about 4 p.m. It was even better to have a tidy little toilet tent that afforded privacy, protection from the elements and allowed us to avoid the crowded and sometimes less-than-pretty privies that we found at some campsites.
Dinners were a real treat, thanks to the creativity of both the Valdez brothers. Usually, we’d start with a hearty soup, followed by chicken and veggies and, on a few occasions, we were treated to freshly caught trout. Desserts could be fruit salad or pudding but were always refreshing. I don’t know where Adolfo learned his cooking secrets but every meal, done over a two-burner propane stove, was as delicious as it was filling. And, while we ate around the cook tent, Abner filled us in on politics, farm life and scuttlebutt on rival guiding agencies.

Although most days involved a change of campsite, we managed to treat ourselves at Laguna Juahuacocha, perhaps one of the prettiest settings on the circuit. This site allowed easy hikes to the toe of a glacier and let me wander the lakeshore looking for high-elevation birds, including Tit-like dacnis and White-cheeked cotinga, Mountain caracara, Cinereous ground-tyrant and several hummingbirds.
The trek ended all too quickly, back at Llamac where again we had some…er…confusion with the bus. Adolfo, in his usual patient style, was able to round up another bus to take us, filthy as we were, back to Chiquian. By afternoon were in Huaraz, met by Anamin at the station, curious to hear about our exploits and ready to escort us back to our hotel.

This really couldn’t have been a better trip and we were very lucky that Katrin found Los Amigos. From start to finish, we were in experienced and gentle hands, fed like royalty, entertained around the camp tent and, of course, treated to one of the best high-altitude treks in the world. We learned a little about handling animals (I really wanted to load Tipi on the plane!). More importantly, for the entire adventure we were treated like family and not just customers. We got to know Abner and Adolfo and their perspective on living in rural Peru. If you are considering the Cordillera Huayhuash for your next trek, I can’t think of a better agency to help you realize your dreams than Los Amigos de Huayhaush.